Tucked inconspicuously into an old brownstone near the corner of 10th Street & 7th avenue, Bobo quietly announces its place on the culinary map of the West Village. While French-inspired fare is de rigueur in the village, Bobo stands out because of it elegance, and quirkiness.

The unmarked entrance leads you just below-ground level to the bar (you can peek in the windows and check out the crowd), which bustles with activity. Here, a bar menu provides small plates that pair well with the wines selected for the cellar. Warmly lit and decorated with carefully chosen antiques, the space is designed to inspire that "speak-easy" feeling from the days of Dorothy Parker and the literati.

A candlelit staircase takes you to the upstairs dining room, which exudes a cozy elegance seldom achieved no matter how often tried. This is a romantic place, so consider bringing your beloved here for a special occasion.

The menu has undergone some alterations, and the kitchen a few chefs, since Bobo opened in 2007. But owner Carlos Suarez, who is as elegant as his restaurant, has managed to bring his vision to this corner of the west village. The technique is definitely inspired by classic French fare, but with a lighter hand and some newer, quirkier flavors. Don't look for loud-takers and glitz-seekers here. There's nothing crass about Bobo.