Across from the Rubin Museum (former Barney's department store), Cafeteria runs a smooth round-the-clock operation that never seems quite like the same place twice. Early-morning breakfasts can be a tranquil affair; lunches are power-charged or laid-back depending on the company; and dinner is a packed house. Late night to the past-midnight hours are a free-for-all. Drinks at the bar are as comforting as the food, which ranges from enormous sandwiches to burgers to meat loaf and other new American delights. Service is always über-friendly, and even the toughest customers seem to walk away happy. While some tables are too close to others for comfort, all seats are comfy and offer great people-watching possibilities in this sleek white upholstered posh temple of food.