Like the coastal village from which it takes its name, Cho Dang Gol is obsessed with the mighty soy bean, touting its pedigree as the only plant protein to contain all the essential amino acids and anecdotal and scientific health benefits of the bean. Luckily, the devotion to the soy bean leaves the restaurant a bit more casual about dining, with a menu that emphasizes handmade bean curd in original Korean recipes that represents both the classic side of the cuisine and the local specificity of rural Korea. There is, of course, the requisite barbecue menu—which, although it seems undersized, is well-curated and perfectly executed—as well as a fair selection of jung sik items, bibimbap, stir-fried seafood, and the like.