Andrew Carmellini's new restaurant in the old Cub Room space, a long-awaited dive into American cuisine with international influences from the otherwise Italian- and French-obsessed restaurateur. The oyster bar (stocked with oysters principally from the Pacific Northwest) is the big draw here, with a solid menu of appetizers that will mostly whet your appetite for more appetizers—especially the red beets, avocado, Sicilian pistachio, and cloumage cheese, although you can't go wrong with the Cajun andouille sausage with dirty rice either. The sea scallops in squash and chile salsa are impossible to describe, and the dry-aged New York strip steak (with the bone in, giving it that inimitable cooked-from-the-inside taste) is eighteen ounces of perfection.

Here you'll find another off-the-menu burger—this one served only at lunch—featuring dry-aged beef with the strangely rare (in New York dining, at least) cheddar cheese on the top. It's as simple as that, but it's a stupendous burger, both satisfying and delightful, and the pommes frites make it a filling meal that still seems somehow light.